What is "reverse-fold sette pieghe"? Why is Cocon said to be the one and only sette pieghe?

Sette pieghe ties are generally made without interlining.
It is an elaborate manufacturing method in which the fabric itself is folded over and over again to take on the role of interlining, thus forming a tie.

This creates
a plump knot, dimples that can be arranged freely, a natural drape, and slight distortions and wrinkles.
The charm of this manufacturing method lies in its non-uniform beauty, which can never be achieved by machine-made products.

On the other hand, due to its multi-layered structure,
the inner folds may appear on the surface as "ridges."
These lines, which appear like threads, show a different expression for each product.

At COCON, we do not consider these "ridges" to be flaws.
They are the inherent individuality of sette pieghe.
They are "traces of time" that are etched into the texture and appearance as the tie is used.

However, at the same time,
strong, unintended ridges or expressions that appear before the tie is even used
are not what we aim for.

For this reason, we adopt our own unique specifications for the unseen parts.
One answer COCON chose is the "reverse fold" construction.

As shown above, in a typical sette pieghe, the folds overlap from the back to the front.
If you look inside, you will see folds that gradually become smaller towards the front.

In contrast, COCON has reversed this structure, designing it to reduce ridges on the front side.

Simply folding it in reverse does not make it beautiful.
To avoid bias towards the center and uneven thickness, the folds are spread uniformly across the entire width of the tie.

We repeatedly tailored and deconstructed ties to arrive at the optimal solution.

The result is both the suppression of ridges and overall balance.
We have achieved both.

Of course, the cost is not small.
The amount of fabric required increases, and the length of the hand-stitched three-fold hem also surely increases.

Nevertheless, we choose it.
That is COCON's hospitality.

Our philosophy resides in the unseen parts.
A difference that is only conveyed when touched.

COCON's new form of sette pieghe.
Please experience it with one of our ties.

(Click here for a list of sette pieghe ties)